In this crack climbing clinic you will learn: hand jams, fist jams, finger locks, ring locks, cupped hands, hand/fist stacks, foot jams, foot stacks, toe jams, heel-toe jams, arm bars, chicken wings, knee bars, and more! These techniques are so important because they allow you to climb using less energy, and therefore you will climb harder and get less pumped!
Practice crack climbing in a range of crack sizes from fingers to hands, to off-widths and chimneys. The focus will be on climbs in the 5.4 to 5.9 range, which sounds easy, but these climbs have stiff ratings. A minimum standard of climbing fitness for this clinic is required (5.10c in the gym or 5.10b outdoor sport climbing) due to the challenging nature of these climbs.
Many sport and gym climbers have failed at crack climbing due to poor technique. A 5.9 crack can sometimes feel impossible to a 5.11 climber! Often times the rating is blamed, when in fact it is a matter of good technique, not brute strength or power!
We will show you how to make perfect tape gloves for better comfort while crack climbing. Compare the pros and cons of using tape gloves vs rubber gloves such as the Ocun or Outdoor Research Splitter.
Erik Kramer-Webb has been crack climbing since 1987, and it is his favorite style of climbing. Some of his most noteworthy crack climbs include Epinephrine, Whodunit, The Rostrum, The Good Book, Astroman, and Godzilla.
One problem people have when crack climbing is laybacking too much. Erik will show you how to jam your hands and feet for efficient movement. Laybacking is inefficient because it drains your arm strength quickly. Jamming is far easier. Above all, it will enable you to stand on your feet, resulting in less effort to climb the crack.
You will learn how to quickly recognize which technique is best suited for the situation. Discuss how to match a cam size to the size of the crack when leading trad climbs.