Learn how to build top rope anchors using trad gear such as cams, nuts, hexes and tri-cams. Master the techniques to build sport anchors off of bolts, as well as natural anchors using trees or boulders.
Anchors 1: October 2, 9, 17, 23, 31 November 13, 20, 27 December 4, 11, 18, 21, 26, 30 January 2
Anchors 2: October 3, 10, 24 November 14, 21, 28 December 5, 12, 19, 22, 27 January 3
Anchors 1 Details
Many anchor building classes are only a few hours long and raise more questions than they answer. This class is 8 hours, and includes plenty of hands-on time to practice the techniques shown. Our second session will cover extension anchors and advanced rappel methods.
Learn how to build top rope anchors using “trad” gear such as cams, nuts, hexes and tri-cams. We will also teach you how to build “sport” anchors using two or three bolts, as well as natural anchors built from trees or boulders.
We will evaluate every piece in the anchor and how they could be even better. Learn an objective method to assess the overall strength and security of your anchors. Special attention will be given to assessing the rock quality so that you never build an anchor in weak rock.
We will cover the common mistakes that climbers make in anchor building and address how to avoid these errors. Common errors include poor rock quality, poorly fitting protection, lack of redundancy, and inadequate equalization.
We will use the “RENE” system to evaluate the reliability of our anchors: Redundant, Equalized, and No Extension. First you will learn how to equalize two pieces, then three, four or five pieces. Materials used to equalize anchors include sewn slings, tied slings, cordelettes, and static rope.
Anchors 2 Details
Building upon the foundation of Session 1, we will learn how to build extended top rope anchors using protection that is over 10 feet away from the edge. You will practice the “Joshua Tree method” using a 40-70 foot static rope.
Knots covered will include the BHK, 2 loop eight aka bunny ears, clove hitch, prussik hitch, auto block, figure 8 on a bight, and figure 8 bend.
Refine your pro placement skills by having an expert eye critique your placements. We will focus on cams and nuts.
Increase your safety while rappelling by using backups and extensions. Learn how to rappel safely off your extended toprope setup using an ATC and a Gri-gri.